By Caroline Hansen
As the first UNESCO designated Creative City of Gastronomy in the United States, it’s only fitting that Tucson would welcome a guest pop-up for the first taqueria to receive a Michelin star, Taquería El Califa De León. The 12 day event hosted by GrinGO and Agave House Modern Cocina was held at Main Gate Square on the corner of University Boulevard and Park Avenue, just west of the University of Arizona campus.
Organizer Brian Krupski, CEO and founder of the GrinGO app, said he chose the university location not only for the guaranteed foot traffic it would provide El Califa de León, but also for the attention it would draw to the entire area and surrounding businesses.
“So many Tucsonans don’t come to the Square and it’s a shame because there are so many great restaurants and shops that get overlooked. I wanted to get Tucsonans to venture out and I wanted to set off an economic spark for all the businesses on the Square. A rising tide lifts all boats,” Krupski said.
Krupski and his brother developed the free travel app, GrinGO, to assist Americans traveling to Mexico. The app offers roadside assistance, emergency services, messaging services as well as help with booking accommodations and dining recommendations. The company’s goal is to promote tourism to Mexico and facilitate more cultural exchanges between citizens of the U.S. and Mexico.
Krupski said it was a community effort that enabled El Califa de León owner Mario Hernández Alonso to set up shop and sell over 15,000 of his world renown tacos during the whirlwind 12 days. This was the second pop-up for Alonso; his first took place in May in Tempe, AZ, and ran for 13 days wherein 23,000 tacos were sold. Krupski was sure Tucson would have broken that record if they’d had one more weekend day.
Like Alonso’s Mexico City taco stand, the pop-up was not a dine in experience, except for a few fold out tables which could be reserved for $100 plus $60 per person to help raise money to cover costs. The restaurant Agave House, located across the street on
University Boulevard, helped organize the event and offered taco lovers seating on their patio for just the cost of a beverage. Agave House’s staff also helped Alonso in the kitchen and at the counter. Chefs and staff from other Tucson restaurants pitched in to help as well, including Buendia Breakfast and Lunch Cafe, Amelia’s Mexican Kitchen, El Charro Cafe and Rollie’s Mexican Patio.
“It was exciting…some signed up to help cook for one shift and had so much fun that they came back for multiple shifts,” Krupski reported.
During the pop-up’s final Saturday night. University Boulevard was bustling. The line for tacos was dauntingly long, wrapping around the corner of the building and trailing far down along Park Avenue. The wait clocked in at just under 80 minutes but it didn’t seem nearly that long. Tucson temperatures had dropped into the 90s that week and there was a gentle breeze. Les Mis was playing at Centennial Hall that evening and those passing by, dressed up and on their way to the theater, asked what the long line was all about.
The mood in the line was cheerful. Alonso himself took a break from the hot kitchen to greet his patient fans and take selfies with them. When asked what he liked best about Tucson, Alonso smiled and said, “I love the people!”
It didn’t take long for food to come out once ordered. The meat was so tender and flavorful—cooked to perfection and seasoned simply. Even though salsa was provided, it was forgotten as the simplicity of the meat and tortilla was delicious on its own. The tortillas were literally silky, light and melted in the mouth! The tacos are desert island worthy. The horchata was delicious and had just the right level of sweetness to be refreshing.
According to the Michelin Guide’s website, their anonymous food inspectors are on the lookout for the following:
1. Quality of products
2. Mastery of flavour and cooking techniques
3. The personality of the chef represented in the dining experience 4. Harmony of the flavours
5. Consistency between inspectors’ visits
Alonso and his tacos definitely met those 5 criteria during the pop-up. What made the experience extra special is how much you could see he and Krupski were enjoying themselves! Krupski reported getting a case of the blues when it was all over and the hard work was complete. “I wish we could have had just one more week, it was so much fun,” Krupski said. He definitely wants to host more cultural exchange culinary pop-ups in the future. The who, what, when and where remain to be seen. Those who attended were lucky to have not missed it!